“Re-fashioning a Sustainable Classic.” An exploration into blending through pattern and structure as a method to improve the use of broad wool fibres in commercial fashion fabrics

Wilmott, Julia Mary (2023) “Re-fashioning a Sustainable Classic.” An exploration into blending through pattern and structure as a method to improve the use of broad wool fibres in commercial fashion fabrics. Doctoral thesis, Northumbria University.

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Abstract

The doctoral research study is a practice-based exploration of weft-knitted textile methods in order to promote further use of British broad wool fibres in commercial fashion fabrics. British wool is an appropriate fibre to explore because of its links to localism and the abundance and variety of sheep breeds within the British Isles. British broad wools are often neglected for other fibre types, such as acrylic or nylon blends, due to their perceived ‘rough’, ‘coarse’ and ‘prickly’ handle; these fibres are not seen as favourable in the fashion market. Seven breed-specific broad wools under-utilised in everyday fashion fabrics were investigated. The knitted textile method explored is ‘blending through pattern’, which refers to utilising weft-knitted pattern structures to combine two, three or more yarn types together; thus, each yarn type is knitted through a single feeder. The blending occurs in the same way that different colours are combined through pattern on the knitting machine. Successfully blended fabrics exchange yarn types regularly in order to improve the overall tactility of each fibre type when they are combined in fabric form. Numerous yarn combinations were tested in five pattern types and structures on the knitting machine, resulting in a substantial collection of over 400 knitted fabrics, many of which are considered ‘soft-handling’ and suitable to be worn next to the skin. The fabrics were collated into a swatch library intended to be a guide to encourage knitwear professionals to utilise broad wools within their designs.

Overall, the research drew several conclusions; firstly, it is possible to create soft-handling fabrics from British wool blends, especially if one of the yarn types is Blue-faced Leicester. Secondly, ‘blending through pattern’ is an appropriate method of combining fibre types. Finally, one success of the project was that every participant in the study could envisage themselves wearing at least one of the fabrics presented to them next to their skin.

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